My recent visit to the Mosel reinforced a powerful truth: once the zenith of fine white wine, the region faces significant challenges. Germany's population is aging and consuming less wine overall. The younger generation is less willing to do the hard vineyard work on steep slate slopes and manage the financial pressures of running a winery in this region. And, while there's a strong and exciting movement to dry Mosel rieslings, the global perception of Mosel riesling's sweet past lingers.
Despite this challenging landscape, spending time with Moritz Hoffmann at Weingut Vollenweider was truly inspiring. I got to see his relentless pursuit of quality firsthand as he passionately upholds the back-breaking vineyard work and classic winemaking traditions required to make extraordinary fine wines in this historic, troubled region. Taking the reins after Daniel Vollenweider's passing in 2022, Moritz isn't just maintaining a legacy of heroic vineyard work; he's carving out his own, which I believe will be fundamental in reclaiming the region's historic reputation for exceptional quality.
I loved seeing the Moselle river and Moritz’s vineyards in Wolf. I hiked his organically farmed, 120-year-old ungrafted vines in Wolfer Goldgrube, trained using single-pole methods dating back to Roman times. Seeing the intense, hands-on effort required to manage every single vine was genuinely spiritual and moving. I was blown away to learn that Moritz spends nearly 10 times the number of hours in his vines compared to his neighbor, who farms conventionally and mechanically. He even quipped, "My neighbor might have more money and time for the beach, but his wines are lame, so who cares?!" His passion and attitude were intoxicating!
The precision in Moritz's wines is breathtaking. His '23 Goldgrube Trocken is 🔥 and one of the best dry Rieslings I've ever tasted. As only the great wines can, there's a sense of weightlessness—so light and effortless but packed with power, acidity, and character that only the Mosel can deliver. We're incredibly proud to support artisans like Moritz who pour their heart and soul into showcasing magnificent terroirs such as these.
Your Chance to Experience Vollenweider:
We’re thrilled to receive Vollenweider’s latest releases, and we’re focusing on his top dry wines for today’s offer. These are wines that embody the dedication and rich heritage of the Mosel. They are firmly and definitively some of the most extraordinary white wines you can find anywhere. If you’ve grown tired of Burgundy and Sancerre prices and need an off-ramp, please look here. If you claim not to like Riesling, I challenge you not to like these!
There’s some serious hype around what Moritz is doing – I’ve heard "he's the next Keller." I don’t know about all that, but I can tell you he’s incredibly talented and the wines kick ass, so don’t sleep on them. These ‘23s are remarkable and will open a lot of eyes. I hope you’ll take advantage. Wines will be in stock next week.
2023 Weingut Vollenweider, Wolfer Riesling Trocken @ $37.99/bottle
This is his village wine from Wolf. It’s racy with intense minerality and a salty, slate feel—the first glimpse of pure rock sensation in these wines. Drink responsibly with a straw, please!
2023 Weingut Vollenweider, Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Trocken @ $64.99/bottle
This was much more intense and expansive on the palate. An extremely powerful wine, but so light and effortless with serious structure and depth, and a finish that lasts forever. This wine stopped me in my tracks. For $65, I challenge you to find a more complex, age-worthy, delicious wine.
2023 Weingut Vollenweider, Wolfer Schimbock Riesling Trocken @ $64.99/bottle
“The “Schimbock” is sourced from a tiny vineyard just downstream from the Goldgrube. This is a beautiful, 0.5-hectare parcel of single-pole-trained, old, ungrafted vines. While Daniel historically did more skin contact with the wine, to give it volume and texture, Moritz is pressing it directly and the wine just has incredible cut to it. This is one of the most incisive and linear dry wines of the Mosel in 2023. Absolutely unreal cut and definition.” – Stephen Bitterolf
2023 Weingut Vollenweider, Wolfer Goldgrube “Aurum” Riesling Trocken @ $105.00/bottle
Getting a case of this incredibly special wine is a real treat. Only ~400 bottles were made, and this is the first time in many years that an Aurum has been produced. These will thrive in the cellar for decades and should be cellared to be enjoyed thoroughly. Put this up against any great white you have in your cellar, and I am sure it will hold its own.
“The “Aurum” is a special, old-vine parcel in the Goldgrube; the oldest vines they have. This is only the fourth vintage they have made the wine (2016, 2017, 2018, and now 2023), and they only made 300 liters. It is very similar to the Goldgrube, yet with more density and more texture. More amplitude; this wine had profound depth and really begins to show its layers after 12-48 hours open. This is haunting.” – Stephen Bitterolf.
These exceptional wines are available now, and we will start shipping next week after the Holiday weekend. Don't miss your chance to experience a true expression of the Mosel. You see our entire allocation above. We will not get another shot at these Grand Crus – Goldgrube, Schimbock and Aurum are one and done, so please act fast if you want to secure them. These artisanal wines are so worth the money, and I can't wait for you to try them!
Matt Tornabene
Founder
Manhattan Wine Company
