2023 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois, Patchwork Chardonnay

This iconic estate, for many, is a reference point not only for the Jura, but the wine world at large. Stéphane took over from his father in 1990 and almost immediately began focusing on the vineyards. In 1999, organic certification was received and then biodynamic came five years after. In many ways, there is a Burgundian undercurrent as can be seen with the obsession of terroir-driven bottlings, but, at the end of the day, these wines are unmistakably Jurassic. A touch of funk combined with an almost electric palate, there is a certain punk rock attitude amidst the layers of complexity that is totally beguiling. 'Patchwork' is Chardonnay picked from both clay and limestone parcels. These are generally from younger vines than the Bruyeres or Graviers single vineyard bottlings; all fruit which doesn't enter those cuvees ends up here--hence the 'Patchwork' moniker. Stéphane tops off, works reductively, and ages this cuvée for 14 months in neutral foudres and 10% new oak barrels. An excellent value and a window into the estate's quality! So much energy and class here for a relatively modest price tag.