2018 Francois Rousset-Martin, Cotes du Jura, Perle du Village Savagnin

François Rousset-Martin works in a small cellar in Arbois, focused almost entirely on Savagnin grown on the region’s gray marl soils. His wines follow the ouillé tradition of the Jura—barrels regularly topped up to prevent oxidation—giving a more direct, mineral expression of the grape rather than the oxidative style associated with vin jaune.

Perle du Village comes from older vines scattered across marl-rich parcels in the Côtes du Jura, many between 25 and 60 years old. The marl here—compressed marine clay and limestone—has a way of imprinting the wines with a salty, almost savory edge.

The wine spends nearly four years in 225L barrels before release, building quiet depth without losing freshness. Aromas lean toward preserved lemon, alpine herbs, and crushed stone, with a subtle nutty note from the long élevage. The palate is taut and persistent, finishing with the stony, slightly savory character that Savagnin develops on these Jura soils.