Apart from a few exciting micro-négociant projects (Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey & Benjamin Leroux come to mind) you don’t often see many new labels in the Cote d’Or these days. The establishment of a new domaine would require an enormous investment given the cost of land, making the possibility beyond the reach of even the most ambitious and talented young producers. Most of the established landholders have no intention of selling any of their prized plots to begin with. The most exciting new wines we’ve come across recently are not really the result of new players in the market at all, just new faces at the helm of old properties or stylistic changes from an already established producer – see Denis Mortet or David Duband. It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that the styles and quality of Domaines remain fairly constant, because more often than not, it’s mostly true. Frankly, drinking and collecting Burgundy is such a lifelong study with so many intricacies in vineyards and vintages that it can be easier to maintain this mindset. The change is only obvious when you actually put your nose in the glass and taste the wines.
It can take a lot to jolt us from our Burgundy rhythm. We follow the region as closely as anywhere else in the world and, like many of you, tend to gravitate toward producers we know and love, following them vintage after vintage. There are definitely pleasant surprises through all our tasting and exploration, but it’s rare that a producer jumps from being basically off our radar to being a cornerstone producer we’re not sure we can live without in coming vintages. Domaine Paul Pillot is squarely in this category. We first encountered these wines at the La Paulée Verticals Tasting earlier this year. If you’ve never been to the verticals, it’s a chance to taste the same wine from a series of vintages from the same producer. There are dozens of producers and a dazzling array of wines. We’ve been going to these tastings for years. Usually, you fall deeper in love with the same wines you’ve always obsessed over. This year was different. It was different because Domaine Paul Pillot was there for the first time pouring their 1er Cru La Romanée wine from a series of vintages. It was an eye-opening experience to say the least. This wine was insanely good, and we’ve been hooked on their entire stable ever since.
Thierry Pillot and his sister, Chrystelle, are now in charge at the domaine, though their father Paul, who took over the reins from his father in 1968, is certainly no stranger to the property these days. The wines that they are turning out at the moment are some of the most compelling, vivid expressions of red and white Burgundy that we have been introduced to in some time. Thierry and Chrystelle have an immense respect for the history of their domaine but also a powerful desire to keep improving upon their successes. They benefit from their exceptional holdings over about 15ha and their wines sparkle with energy, precision and clarity across the board. Though the domaine is still not widely known in the US, those that have tasted the wines have become fast fanatics, and they are already becoming tightly allocated. Think back to when Jean-Marc Roulot exploded onto the scene. Hopefully, these don’t follow his in price, but given their exceptional quality, we're not holding our breath. We’d think many of you will spring immediately for the white wines, but do not miss the red here. Chassagne, like Sancerre in the Loire, was an appellation originally lauded for its Pinot Noir production. Pillot’s spicy, bright expression makes a strong case for keeping the Pinot tradition alive. As for the whites, run don’t walk. From the Aligoté all the way to La Romanée, these are wines that you’ll be scrambling to track down each year once you see how mesmerizing they can be.