The volcanic Canary Islands are just off the coast of Morocco, and are a world of unique, authentic wines that are just appearing on most collectors' radar. This is an organic wine, made with native yeast ferment, crafted from over 100 year old ungrafted vines, which ages in old French oak. This is a serious wine that will reward all the aeration you're able to give it. The nose opens with a lager beer-like, yeasty hint atop a hint of banana liqueur. The palate is a touch hot--this is a very rich, powerful wine, but one you'll finish. The acidity becomes more pronounced with air, somehow. The wine feels like it has one foot in sherry and one foot in the granite slopes of Rias Baixas or Vinho Verde (even if it actually grows in sand, on steep, foggy seaside cliffs). Air really helps to tease the nuance out of this wine. There’s a pastis-like candied, smoky fennel and lemongrass finish that slowly materializes as you taste. The lovely, piercing salty character brings sherry to mind. How many hours in advance should this be opened? I’m not sure, maybe an entire day.
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